Forget haute couture! Thrifting is one of fashion’s biggest trends now. No longer are people hunting down designer pieces—they’re digging through racks at the second-hand store. But they might not tell you what store anymore. 

From Rags to Riches

Buying and selling used goods is nothing new. The concept of “thrifting” dates back to the Middle Ages where people would trade their clothes in market squares. Modern thrifting, as we know it, was developed in the mid 1800s.  The Salvation Army was founded in 1865, and Goodwill followed almost 40 years later in 1902. As society modernized and the economic divide widened, second-hand shopping became stigmatized because it was primarily done by immigrants. But, just like fashion trends and opinions come and go, the 20^th century brought a more positive outlook for thrifting. Now, saying “I thrifted this” is a flex, not a flaw, and it doesn’t look like that’s changing anytime soon. The global secondhand clothing and resale industry is projected to reach almost $400 billion by 2030, growing twice as fast as the overall apparel market. 

Reduce, Reuse, Repost

The industry has grown thanks to Gen Z’s love for the environment and affinity for social media. As fast fashion became more condemned by Gen Z for its unethical practices, thrifting became celebrated. Because most people who thrift are Gen Z, it only makes sense that thrifting has gone digital to match its growing audience. Online apps and websites like Depop, ThredUp, and Vinted allow users to buy and sell their clothes online. “Thrift-Tok” is a community on TikTok where users post thrift hauls, favorite finds, and some even share their hidden gem thrift stores. Another trend is “Thrift-flipping” where people post videos of themselves altering second-hand pieces through creative means like bedazzling, embroidery, dyeing, or even sewing parts of two together to create something brand new.  

One of a Kind

With these online outlets and content about thrifting, it’s easier than ever to keep up with fashion trends and styles. Social media provides wider outlets for users to express their styles, connect with others, and be exposed to new trends. And, since fashion is the preferred entertainment category for Gen Z to spend money on, thrifting offers a cheaper way to try more things on for size. Oftentimes, it’s typical for Gen Z to select aspects of a trend to adopt into their wardrobe—as opposed to following set style religiously—so they can adjust it with their own unique style. This is an example of the Optimal Distinctiveness Theory, and one reason why people are keeping their favorite thrift stores a secret. 

The Optimal Distinctiveness Theory was proposed by Marilyn Brewer in 1991. It states that humans have the need to belong to a group, but also to retain individuality. These needs often compete against one another. In the context of thrifting and gatekeeping, the phenomenon can be seen when people routinely visit the same thrift store in hopes of finding a vintage or trendy piece but then refuse to reveal the name of the store or brand of the clothing item. They want to keep up with the trend, find a way to incorporate it into their style, but prevent others from doing the same.  

Treasure Hunting

Online thrifting also has given rise to re-sellers. Because thrifting has become so popular, both secondhand items and the content they generate make money. People seeking a profit will often go into these secondhand stores (or the online equivalent), hunt for things that are particularly trendy at the moment and then sell them online at higher prices—without altering the clothing in any significant or fashionable way. They’re not upcycling; they’re upselling. This epidemic makes thrifters more inclined to gatekeep their favorite spots for two reasons. One, a pure numbers game. If you have a thrift store where you consistently find great pieces that you enjoy, the more people who know about the store, the more people who could purchase an item you might like before you get the chance.  

The second reason: supply and demand. Per the standard economic model, the more demand you have for products, the more money you can charge. Thrift stores and online retailers have noticed the uptick in customers they’re receiving as thrifting has become more popular, so they’ve raised their prices. While thrifting has become more popular, its original audience remains: those looking for affordable fashion or simply clothes that won’t break the bank. Higher prices force lower income thrifters to resort to finding a different store, sticking to hand-me-downs, or seeing how far they can stretch a dollar.  

So don’t be offended the next time someone doesn’t tell you where their shirt is from. Maybe they don’t thrift & tell, or perhaps they believe in survival of the thrift-iest! 

#gatekeep #girlboss #M94.5 #München #Thrifting